Fitting Coats and Suits 1963(fitting photo guide), Draping and fitting

Fitting Coats and Suits ...

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Fitting Coats and Suits 1963(fitting photo guide), Draping and fitting

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//-->Fitting Coats and Suits1963--Smith, Margaret, Clothing SpecialistClothing and Housing Research DivisionAgricultural Research ServiceHome and Garden Bulletin 11, USDASlightly revised June 1963Archive copy of publication, do not use for current recommendations.The PDF file was provided courtesy of the National Agricultural Library.Scroll down to view the publication.Agricultural Network Information CentercoatsandsuitsHome and Garden Bulletin No.11Unifed States Department of AgricultureFitting Coats and SuitsBy Margaret Smith, clothing specialistMore and more women are making their owncoats and suits these days. Periodic sales reportsof woolen suitings and coatings and suit and coatpatterns indicate this trend to home tailoring.Many women also make some of their own altera-tions on ready-mades—or alter old garments tobring them up-to-date.For those who do this more advanced type ofhome sewing, there is a need for practical help onfitting home-tailored coats and suits so that thegarments will have a trim, well-tailored, custom-made look. This bulletin is planned to give suchhelp, as well as to aid the woman who wishes tomake some of her own alterations on ready-mades.Unless you're experienced at sewing, don'tundertake major alterations on a tailored garmentof this kind. Straightening hems, putting in newshoulder pads, lengthening or shortening sleevesmay be done by the amateur. But when moredifficult operations are needed—such as setting insleeves—considerable experience in sewing is re-quired.Detailed information on altering patterns andtailoring is contained in other U. S. Department ofAgriculture publications prepared by this Bureau:Pattern Alteration, Farmers' Bulletin No. 1968;How to Tailor a Woman's Suit, MiscellaneousPublication No. 591; and Coat Making at Home,Farmers' Bulletin No. 1894.Most of the fitting problems discussed in thisbulletin may be found in either suits or coats, andthe methods of correcting them are the same ingarments of both types. Although some of theproblems are caused by faulty cut or construction,most are a result of figure irregularities.In order to save yourself as much trouble aspossible be sure to buy the size pattern or ready-made garment that fits you best. Then, if somerefitting is needed, a dress form made exactly toyour measurements is a big help. Or do the fit-ting on yourself with someone to help you.How coats and suits should fitCollarSets smoothly to neck, fitting close atback and sides; collar edge lies againstcoat, never ripples or turns up. Turn-over collars cover back neck seam.Smooth with no wrinkles,Crosswiseyarns parallel to floor.Smooth; width follows current fashion.No wrinkles, either at sides or at bottom.toward sides.ChestShouldersArmholesFront edgeHangs straight down—no swingingSleevesHang straight down from shoulderswith no ripples or wrinkles. In a suit,sleeves follow position of the arm as ithangs naturally; coat sleeves usuallyhang straight, as they are generallyfuller than suit sleeves. Crosswiseyarns parallel to floor; lengthwise yarnsvertical.Side SeamsHang straight to floor; no swinging toback or front.BackSmooth across the shoulders, withcrosswise yarns parallel to floor. Nowrinkles below collar edge. For cardrivers or bus riders, a little extra roomacross back saves strain on garment.In fitted suits and coats, the waistlineshould be about one-half inch belowthe normal one, as it stays in placebetter than when fitted to the actualline. A fastening at the coat or suitwaistline prevents unsightly gapping offitted or semi-fitted garments.Coat, jacket, and skirt hems should bean even distance from floor all around.WaistlineHefflFitting a home-tailored coat or suitHints about fitting• Fit over type of clothing to be worn under thesuit or coat.• Be sure you have the garment on straight—thatcenter front and back lines are in correct positionand shoulders smooth.• Insert shoulder pads for each fitting.• Do all fitting with garment right side out.Try on—After basting seams to be sure they hangstraight.When adjusting undercollar and fitting arm-holes.When sleeves are basted in.When hems are measured.After each alteration to be sure of the fit.Press seams and darts thoroughly. Shrink inany excess fullness that has to be eased in so thefabric lies flat without ripples or bulges.Pin in darts if the garment is too long or too wide.If it's too small, slash the model and insert a stripof cloth to lengthen or widen wherever needed.If many alterations must be made, it may bebest to make another muslin model to be sure thechanges will give a well-fitting garment. To dothis, alter the pattern just like the muslin. Thencut a new model from this pattern. Or rip themuslin model apart and use the pieces as a pattern,if your material is firm and not likely to stretch.If only a few changes are needed, a new paperpattern with the proper adjustments may beenough, and you won't need a new muslin model.If changes are minor, just alter the original pattern.Adjustments in suit jacket or coatCrosswise wrinkles above waistlineand in sleevesThese crosswise wrinkles are caused by too muchlength in the waist. The sleeves are also too long.To correct, pin tucks above the waist to shorten.If elbow fullness comes below the elbow, pin in atuck deep enough to bring the fullness to the elbow.Shorten sleeves below elbow in the same way ifnecessary.Make a muslin modelWhen you make a suit or coat, wardofffittingproblems by making a trial garment of muslin.It will save time and material, for you may finda particular style unbecoming or the pattern mayneed too many changes. Even when a trial gar-ment is made, however, some fitting needs to bedone on the actual garment. Final fitting ofsleeves, collars, and waistline must be done as thegarment is made. A dress form, made like yourfigure, helps a great deal.Make this trial suit or coat just like the pattern,taking in darts and making seams according topattern markings. You need not attach the topcollar or front facings; these do not affect the fit.Try on with shoulder pads in place; pin. Thencheck the fit carefully. If the garment is to belined—perhaps interlined—it should not fit tooclosely.Now, make changes needed in the proportionof the garment—changes that can't be made satis-factorily once the garment is cut. If it's too longor short from neck to waist, too wide across thechest, or sleeves too short, change the muslin. [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]

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