FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-24, Fictional Reality Gaming -Magazine

FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-24

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FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-24, Fictional Reality Gaming -Magazine

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Table of Contents
Advertiser Index
Terrain Workshop
Rezolution Card Terrain
2
Great Canadian Miniatures IFC, 82
Hasslefree Miniatures 2, 14, 21, 53
Fantization
5, 56
Alpha Forge Games
8
Miniature Reviews
Hasslefree Miniatures
11
Hotz Artwork
10
Dark Age Games
16
Dark Age Games
15
Blue Table Painting
17, 31, 73, 76
Alpha Forge Games
18
Reaper Miniatures
26, 27
Reaper Miniatures
19
Brigade Models
32
Privateer Press
33
Discount Hobby
35
Mega Miniatures
36
Corvus Belli
38
Corvus Belli
37
Olleys Armies
41
Aberrant Games
40
Magnificent Egos
44
Magnificent Egos
42
Your Move Games
49
Privateer Press
59
Convention Report
Aberrant Games
63
ReaperCon 2006
48
Mongoose Publishing
68
Thunderbolt Mountain
74
Columbia Games
78
Game Preview
Dark Age: Exodus
54
20 Questions
Matt Wilson of Privateer Press 57
Battle Report
Rezolution: APAC vs. Dravani 61
Game Reviews
B5: A Sky Full of Stars
75
Xenology
76
RPG Adventure
Comanche Trouble, part 2
77
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Rezolution Cardstock Terrain
endless supply of color in and a nice color laser printer
then have at it! If, on the other hand, like the rest of us
you have to pay for your own ink and your printer did-
n’t cost as much as all of the other bits in your com-
puter system you’ll want to take a second to think about
a few things. Do I use up all of my ink? How much
will this end up costing when I factor that into the
equation. How will the resulting prints look coming
from my home printer? I started off printing sheets off
on my home printer, but I quickly switched to using
Kinko’s online printing service to shoot the pdf’s over
there and have them do the printing for me. Why?
Well, the cardstock that they are printing on not quite
as dull as the regular (110 LB) stuff that I picked up at
the local mega-store. It has a tiny bit of glossy finish to
it. Of course, what your Kinko’s, or other printer car-
ries/uses, might vary but I’ve been happy with theirs.
Shooting it off to Kinko’s costs me $1.34 per sheet.
That might sound kind of high since it’s just a bit of
paper and ink but the upside is that it’s their headache
if it doesn’t come out right. I just tell them to print it
right. If they run out of ink I don’t have to run out and
For this issue’s Terrain Workshop I decided to take a
look at all of the terrain pieces that come on the CD
that’s included with the starter packs of Aberrant
Games’ skirmish sci-fi game, Rezolution.
On each CD you get several full-color terrain pieces,
made by the talented folks at World Works Terrain,
with which to quickly enhance your Rezolution battle-
field, but there are some preliminary considerations
before you get to work cutting and pasting like when
you were back in elementary school.
Printing
Well, it seems an easy enough task to just buy some
cardstock and print away, but there is a bit more to it
than that. First, there are some sheets (as you’ll see
later) that have more white space than you might want.
Do you edit these first to cram more on the page or just
leave them like you found them? Also to consider is
where you’ll do the printing. If you have access to an
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get more. If there’s a paper jam I don’t have to throw
my printer out the window. If the wife needs to use the
computer/printer that’s fine because my terrain is print-
ing at Kinko’s. They send me an e-mail when it’s done
and I just go pick it up. The quality of their printing is
definitely noticeable too. I figure that most people
have a color printer (mine is one of those copy/scan/
printer thingies) but it’s probably not as high of quality
as a commercial color printer so to me the cost is out-
weighed by the benefits of having the sheets printed for
me.
Gluing
Ok, first some things to stay away from. White glue is
a no-no. It’s got way too high a moisture content and it
will cause your models to warp. I’ve even had bad re-
sults from the “tacky” craft glue that you get from
mainstream hobby stores. Still too much water content.
The World Works tutorial (these are very cool and
helpful so you really should check them out) shows a
glue pen being used and it releases a liquid glue that
doesn’t look like it warps much, if at all. I can’t say
that I’ve used it because I have not but I have two oth-
ers that I use that work for me. The first is a glue stick
that is sort of like a lipstick container that’s filled with
a tacky solid glue that you rub on. It’s worked great for
me and I have not had any warping issues. I may not
be able to get as precise of a line or bead of glue as
with a glue pen, but it’s working great for me so far.
With the glue stick I glue the entire area that’s being
glued, not jus the perimeter and some zig-zags in the
middle. I do this to get as secure of a bond as possible
and to keep walls from splitting when sections have to
be cut out. Maybe I glue more than needed, but it’s
working out well for me. I’ve also had some success
with super-glue. Yup, the stuff that you glue you’re
figures together with. I started using it way back when
I build my first Necromunda terrain pieces and the
more I use my glue stick the less I use the super-glue.
I’ve found that type of card you print on has a lot to do
with how well the super-glue works. On standard card-
stock it tends to just seep right through and glue you to
the paper model. On the stuff I have printed at Kinko’s
it works really well and I think that has something to do
with the slightly glossy nature of their cardstock. The
super-glue is also less forgiving (basically not forgiving
at all) if you need to make adjustments, but it does sig-
nificantly speed up the bonding process and you can
move through assembly more quickly assuming you’re
not having to un-glue yourself from a model or scrap
one that you’ve made a mistake with. I think that a real
burnishing tool is also in my future (like a real cutting
mat) but until that day comes I’ve used my hands, roll-
ing a coffee cup and put models under oodles of heavy
books.
Editing
Ok, so do you leave the pretty pictures as World Works
intended or mess with them? Well, I assume that
unless you’re editing and re-selling them there’s no
legal issues I say do whatever you like. Personally, if
I’ve decided (and I have) to pay Kinko’s to print off my
sheets I’m going to cram them as full as possible to
maximize the amount of terrain I end up getting out of
a given number of pages. There’s not as many editing
and adjusting layout opportunities available with the
base set you get on the Rezolution CD but when you
combine that with other stuff that’s available for free
on the Internet or for purchase you can easily end up
with oodles of stuff to print out and the more you can
get out of one sheet, the better. I use Photoshop just
because we have it (my wife’s former career was in
Graphic Design and it’s just something that she needed)
but you can find other graphic editing programs all
over the place. The Gimp is a free one that is definitely
usable and a quick Google search will point it out for
you. If you’re going to edit the files you’ll need some
kind of program, but use what works for you and that
you like.
Cutting
The World Works Terrain website
(www.worldworksgames.com) has some great video
tutorials and they recommend tossing your scissors and
using just a hobby blade. I still make lots of use of my
scissors and haven’t noticed any ill effects so I can’t
say the same right now. You will definitely need a
hobby blade and make sure that you have lots of extra
blades and a good cutting surface. I’ve not popped for
one of those fancy green self-healing mats yet, but it’s
probably something I’ll pick up soon. Steel ruler, steel
ruler, steel ruler….just get one! Cutting out the parts
takes the most time of anything and I tend to do it while
something else is going on in the background. I’ll lis-
ten to music or half pay attention to a baseball game or
something while I’m cutting. I haven’t cut anything off
yet, but just make sure you’re careful and if you can’t
pay attention to more than one thing at a time then you
might want to lock yourself in a room to do your cut-
ting.
Black Lining
Yes, get a couple of good black felt tip pens. No, don’t
try to do black lining before the glue is dry. I’ve not
invested in a set of multiple colors and that’s because
the black is working fine for me right now. I can hon-
estly say that black lining your cardstock models is ab-
solutely a must and it helps the final appearance so
much. Just do it!
Ok, I think that covers the stuff that’s not specific to the
terrain files on the CD so let’s move on to those.
You’ll notice that I’ve added a small picture of the ac-
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