FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-21, Fictional Reality Gaming -Magazine

FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-21

Indeks Finanse, Finanse(1), Filozofos, Fesenjan, Fenix,

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FictionalReality-MAGAZINE-21, Fictional Reality Gaming -Magazine

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PAINTING WORKSHOP
Galatius Aquatinus
2
ADVERTISERS INDEX
Great Canadian Miniatures IFC, 16, 39, 71
Tiny Souls 3
Hasslefree 5, 25, 38, 63
Fantization 7, 49
Dark Age 9
Dark Basement 11, 51, 64
Urban Mammoth 13
Blue Table Painting 14, 39, 45, 65
Columbia Games 18
Brigade Models 23
Reaper Miniatures 30, 57
Whitewash City 32
Middle Pillar Path Painting 35
RPG Objects 37, 67
Magnificent Egos 40
Excelsior Entertainment 42, 53
Thunderbolt Mountain Miniatures 46
Coat of Arms
MINIATURE REVIEWS
Dark Age
8
www.dark-age.com
Privateer Press
10
www.privateerpress.com
Urban Mammoth
12
www.urbanmammoth.com
Zvezda
14
www.zvezda.org.ru/eng
Mongoose Publishing
15
www.mongoosepublishing.com
Magnificent Egos
16
www.magnificentegos.com
Brigade Models
22
www.brigademodels.co.uk
Hasslefree Miniatures
24
54
www.hasslefreeminiatures.co.uk
Excelsior Entertainment
Privateer Press
61
27
Mongoose Publishing
68
www.excelsiorentertainment.com
Great Canadian Miniatures/Terrain 27
www.gc-minis.com
Reaper Miniatures
28
www.reapermini.com
MINIATURE PREVIEWS
Excelsior Entertainment
41
Fantasy Landscapes: Graveyard
44
BATTLE REPORT
RagÓNarok
48
www.rackham.fr
GAME REVIEWS
Celtos
63
www.brigademodels.co.uk
Defiance: Vital Ground
65
www.mj12games.com
Confrontation 3
67
www.rackham.fr
Spycraft: Dark Inheritance
70
This issueÓs cover artwork courtesy of Brigade Models
www.brigademodels.co.uk
www.darkinheritance.net
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www.excelsriorentertainment.com
TERRAIN WORKSHOP
Last issue we started a new feature where we send a profes-
sional miniature painter a newly (or about to be) released
miniature and have them paint it up and tell us all how they
did it. This time we have the privilege of watching Irene
Turner from Australia show us how itÓs done with a new
model from Magnificent Egos, Galatius Aquatinus. Take it
away Irene...
pain to remove. Since I couldn't find any photos online to
use as a reference (all the photos I found are frontal shots) I
had nothing to go on but gut instinct. I removed the mold-
line. Hopefully my gut was right, otherwise don't hold it
against me!
Aside from my mold line issues, the miniature is a fairly
simple one to prepare and assemble for painting.
I have to say that from the moment I laid eyes on Galatius
Aquatinus I've been really excited about how he will turn
out. His roman garb and striking pose make him a stand-out
miniature in my books so I can safely assume I will have a
blast painting him for this review.
Priming and Undercoating
Before I begin paint-
ing I prime the
miniature using
Games Workshop
Skull White spray
primer. Nothing
fancy, just some light
coats to get good,
smooth coverage.
After this I mixed up
a glaze using a size 1
brushload of GW
Black Ink, a drop of
Vallejo Glaze Me-
dium and a few drops of water, you don't want the glaze to
be too black you just want it to leave black ink in the re-
cesses without over-colouring the rest of the miniature. I
use this glaze over the miniature save for the flesh areas, it
brings out the detail and helps me with the painting proc-
ess.
Preparation and Assembly
Assembly of the miniature is straight forward, all you
really need to attach are his two arms and they fit fairly
well so I shouldn't need to pin them (which is a blessing in
disguise seeing as I can't seem to find my pinning wire or
my drill bits). I always recommend pinning where possible
though, especially when models have arms sticking out
perpendicular to the body - as Galatius has. For now, how-
ever, I will have to stick to putty and superglue.
I've decided I might attach the front arm after I've painted
his torso as the arm covers a good portion of it when at-
tached and this won't make for easy painting.
One major issue I find with this miniature is the mold lines,
they tend to fall in places where they are most difficult for
me to remove. I'm not the world's best mold line remover
so, when the mold lines fall across well defined muscular
areas, I tend to fret a little. There are a few lines in particu-
lar that gave me troubles on Galatius, one across his thigh,
one across his hair and the other across the inside of his
cloak. When removing lines across flesh you need to be
careful, if you try too hard you may end up roughing up the
skin to the point where it looks like the miniature was
shoved in a blender - not a good look. I have a sneaking
suspicion that the line on his thigh is still going to show up
after painting - despite my best efforts to remove it without
flattening his muscle definition. As for the line across his
hair, let's just say I despise hair mold lines. You cannot file
them down well or you end up with flat hair, you just have
to cut at them carefully with your knife and try to get rid of
as much of the line as you can. This brings us to the inner
cloak line. To be honest with you, I'm not even sure if this
one was a mold line or was actually intentional. If it was
intentional I guess it could have been an inner lining on the
cloak, if not it was one hell of a thick mold line and a right
Painting: Flesh
First of all I make a nice dirty green basecoat by mixing
equal parts of VGC Charred Brown and Cayman Green,
then thin the mix with one or two drops of water. If it's not
looking dirty or dark enough, add a little more brown as
this is going to be the colour of the shadowed areas of
flesh. Once I have good coverage on all the flesh areas
(usually takes a few coats) I can move onto the first high-
light.
The purpose of the first highlight is to plot out the raised
muscular areas and to also give the next highlight a base
that will make it stand out well. I achieve this by mixing a
drop of white paint into the flesh basecoat mix, the result
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being a rather pallid olive green that almost looks like a
pastel. I add another drop of water, making sure the mix is
thin enough for highlighting and use the mix to highlight
all the raised areas on the models flesh such as muscles and
boney areas. I usually have a little trouble painting muscles
that aren't well defined, thankfully Galatius has humungous
muscles so it was no problem figuring out where the high-
lights should go. This highlight doesn't have to be perfect
as I will be painting over it with the next highlight.
The second highlight is just water-thinned VGC Camou-
flage Green. I layer this over the areas that were high-
lighted in the last step. The green should pop out instantly
thanks to the last highlight.
I went with VGC Scar Red as the alternative, Gory Red,
tends to become burgundy when you add black to it, plus I
think Scar Red is pretty. I start off by mixing a tiny bit of
black paint into my Scar Red, I keep adding the black paint
until I end up with an incredibly dark red, actually at this
stage it looks more like a very dark maroon. This is my
basecoat, I thin it down and paint it onto the cloak and front
skirt section until it is opaque.
The third, and final highlight for the main flesh areas, is
Camouflage Green with a little white added to the mix. I
use this sparingly, just highlighting the very highest points
on the flesh (as usual the paint is thinned with water). The
face is painted in the same way, however I give the face
one more highlight by adding a little more white to the
third highlight mix. I painted this on Galatius' nose, the top
of his cheekbones, brow, and lip.
The first highlight is just Scar Red, once again it is thinned
down to the point that one layer over the basecoat is only
just visible to the naked eye - you want it thin enough that
it takes two coats for you to be able to see the Scar Red
well. This step is easy thanks to the sculptor's job on the
cloak, all you do is highlight the cloak leaving the recesses
of the folds in the base colour. Several coats later and you
are done.
Cloak
Galatius has a gorgeous cloak that is really easy to paint. I
decided the only fitting colour for his cloak was red and I
wanted the red to be vibrant. In order to achieve a red that
jumps out and screams at you, you need to start with a dark
base.
The next highlight is VGC Bloody Red. I just use this on
the highest sections of the cloak, the sections I want to
stand out such as the hood area, the centres of each fold in
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