Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs FAQ, permaculture

Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs FAQ

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Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs FAQ, permaculture

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Should I fertilize mature trees that are left after con-
struction?
Do so in combination with aerating, water-
ing, and mulching. Be sure to use slow release or WIN
fertilizer so there’s no burn potential. Since roots proba-
bly were damaged or removed, reduce fertilizer quantity.
For more information on selection, planting, cultural
practices, and environmental quality, contact your local
Virginia Cooperative Extension Office. If you want to
learn more about horticulture through training and vol-
unteer work, ask your Extension agent about becoming
an Extension Master Gardener. For monthly gardening
information, subscribe to
The Virginia Gardener
Newsletter
by sending your name and address and a
check for $5.00 made out to “Treasurer, Va. Tech” to The
Virginia Gardener, Department of Horticulture, Virginia
Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0349. Horticultural infor-
mation is also now available on the Internet by connect-
ing with Virginia Cooperative Extension’s server at
http://www.ext.vt.edu
Are there differences in fertilizer quality?
Differences exist due to formulation and packaging -
little difference should exist in raw ingredients. For
example, fertilizer spikes and fertilizer granules may
contain equal amounts of N in available nutrients, but
the spikes will cost significantly more.
Fertilizing
Trees and Shrubs
Can I use pesticides in conjunction with fertilizer?
Some pesticide/fertilizer combinations are premixed;
for example, turf preemergent herbicide/ fertilizer
products. They are not premixed for ornamentals due to
differences in species requirements and tolerances.
Also, there is more even distribution of both if applied
separately as they can be hard to keep evenly mixed
unless in liquid form.
Don’t apply liquid fertilizer and
liquid herbicide with the same sprayer, unless your fer-
tilizer instructions specifically recommend mixing.
The original development of this series was funded by
ESUSDA Smith Lever 3(d) National Water Quality
Initiative Funds and the Virginia Department of
Conservation and Recreation, Division of Soil and Water
Conservation.
Can fertilizer be harmful to the environment?
If
improperly applied, especially in high concentrations, it
can kill earthworms. If you apply too much N, it can
stimulate too much vegetative growth at the expense of
flower/fruit formation. Overfertilized lush plants are
more susceptible to pests and drought. Applying too
much fertilizer or at the wrong time can increase leach-
ing into groundwater. Fertilizer increases the rate of
decomposition of organic material, so it’s important to
add more organic matter periodically.
When should I apply fertilizer?
Timing is more criti-
cal if you use a fast release fertilizer - either early
spring or late fall application is most effective, when
roots are growing but top is slow or dormant. Avoid late
summer fast release fertilizer application, as it may
cause a flush of tender growth that will be damaged by
frost. A slow release fertilizer may be applied anytime
during the growing season.
Reprinted 2001
Publication 426-715
My soil test says “high in PK” - should I use 10-10.
10 fertilizer?
No – you may add N in the form of
ammonium nitrate, but be very careful not to overfertil-
ize. By using only what your soil needs, you will pro-
tect groundwater and save money!
Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of race,
color, religion, sex, age, veteran status, national origin, disability, or political affiliation. An
equal opportunity/affirmative action employer. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative
Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University,
and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. J. David Barrett, Director, Virginia
Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg; Lorenza W. Lyons, Administrator, 1890
Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg.
VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE
AND STATE UNIVERSITY
VIRGINIA STATE UNIVERSITY
Fertilizing Trees and Shrubs
phosphorus, and 10% potassium. Consequently, a 50
pound bag of 10-10-10 contains only 5 pounds of actual
nitrogen. Whether you use organic or synthetic fertiliz-
ers, try to find one with a high percentage of water-insol-
uble nitrogen (WIN); this is a slow-release form of
nitrogen –– becoming available as the plant can use it ––
that will not wash, or leach, through the soil into
groundwater.
Questions and Answers
If I fertilize the lawn around my trees and shrubs
regularly, do I have to apply extra fertilizer for my
trees and shrubs, too?
Probably not –– a good lawn
fertilization program will usually provide enough nutri-
ents for landscape plantings in the lawn as well.
Monitor the vigor and color of the landscape plantings
and apply extra nutrients only if needed.
Trees and shrubs are the foundation of a good land-
scape and an important part of your home. They lend
not only beauty and shade, but increase the value of
your property as well. It pays to care for them properly.
Fertilizing
In urban or suburban neighborhoods, trees and shrubs
often need fertilizing. Modern home-building methods
create adverse growing conditions for plants. Often,
good topsoil is completely removed and not replaced.
Heavy machinery scrapes and compacts fertile soil,
reducing its aeration and drainage. Plants are crowded
by streets and sidewalks, and must compete with grass
for nutrients. Proper fertilization is especially important
to landscape plants in this type of environment.
Apply The Correct Amount
Specialists recommend applying fertilizer over the entire
root zone of a plant. Consequently, the amount you
apply will depend on how many square feet are covered
by the plant’s roots.
Should I water before or after fertilizing?
Do not
water before fertilizing, as the water on the grass will
tend to make the fertilizer stick to the grass blades and
burn them. Spread the fertilizer and then irrigate. The
water will wash the fertilizer off the grass and into the
soil, where the roots can use it.
To determine a plant’s root zone, you must first know the
radius of the plant’s roots. Root radius is at least twice
the radius of the plant’s crown. For example, if the
branches of a tree appear to spread about 15 feet from
the trunk, then the roots spread at least 30 feet. To Find
the total square feet covered by the roots, use the formu-
la 3.14 X (root radius) X (root radius). In the example
given above, this would be:
Certain plants are not doing well even though I fer-
tilize regularly – what is wrong?
Some plants require
acid soil, some need alkaline soil – for example, rhodo-
dendrons and azaleas require acidic soil to thrive. Or
plants might have a specific micronutrient deficiency,
or the nutrient balance could be off. For accurate
results, do another soil test requesting analysis for
micronutrients.
What Nutrients Are Needed?
Get a soil analysis before you fertilize. This will help
you determine what nutrients your plants need (obtain
soil test forms and instructions at your local Extension
office). If the soil test recommends lime, apply it; this
balances the soil pH and helps plants absorb nutrients
more efficiently.
3.14 x 30 x 30= 2,826 square feet
I use mulch, compost, and lime on my garden - is
there any need to fertilize, too?
Yes – your soil needs
a good source of NPK – organic or synthetic. Mulch,
compost, and lime enhance the plants’ ability to use
these nutrients, but do not supply them.
You should also watch for some of the following symp-
toms of nutrient deficiency: pale green or yellow
leaves, reduced leaf size and retention, premature fall
coloration and leaf drop, reduced twig and branch elon-
gation and retention, yellowing along the leaf veins,
and overall reduced plant growth and vigor.
Once you know the total area in square feet covered by
the roots, you can estimate the amount of fertilizer you
need. When you fertilize evergreens, use 1 to 3 pounds
per 1000 square feet. For plants that lose their leaves, use
no more than 2 pounds of fertilizer per thousand square
feet in one application otherwise, plants may be burned.
To avoid potential nutrient deficiencies, you can estab-
lish a fertilization schedule for young and newly trans-
planted trees and shrubs. Fertilize annually for two
years with slow release fertilizer to promote their estab-
lishment in the landscape. Fertilize every two years
until the plant matures if it is not in already fertilized
turf. Fertilize mature trees and shrubs if growth seems
inadequate.
Apply Fertilizer Properly
The easiest and most effective method of supplying
nutrients to the entire root system of the plant is broad-
casting –– spreading granular fertilizer evenly over the
entire root zone. Be sure to keep fertilizer away from
driveways and other paved surfaces, as it can wash into
storm drains and lower the water quality of our streams
and bays.
Should I keep kids and pets off the fertilized area?
Probably not – after they are well watered, nutrient fer-
tilizer granules in soil or mulch should pose no prob-
lem. The amount a child or pet could consume from the
landscape is not enough to hurt them. If you use larger
pellets or fertilizer stakes, be sure they are buried so
children and pets won’t try to eat them. Some fertilizer
salts could burn or cause skin irritations. If your fertil-
izer is a blend that includes pesticides, it is toxic - fol-
low label instructions carefully.
Pick The Right Fertilizer
Complete fertilizers contain the three nutrients plants
need in the largest amount for optimum growth – nitro-
gen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). A fertiliz-
er labeled “10-10-10” contains 10% nitrogen, 10%
Digging or drilling holes throughout the root zone and
partially filling them with fertilizer is not effective, as
most of the feeder roots of a tree or shrub are in the
upper layer of soil, and drilling puts the fertilizer below
the level of the feeder roots.
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